Your K1 Max stops forty minutes into a long ABS job and Klipper reports that the bed heater is not heating at the expected rate. Or the thermistor reading jumps around, or one corner never gets warm enough to hold the first layer. On a machine with a 300 x 300 mm build area, a failing heated bed takes the whole printer out of service.
The genuine Creality K1 Max Heated Bed Kit replaces the complete factory hotbed in one piece. It arrives pre-assembled with its heater, thermistor and cable, built to the same specification as the part that left the factory in your printer.
The result is a K1 Max heated bed that reaches temperature, holds it evenly and gets you back to printing without guesswork.
Genuine Creality part 4001040055 | Fits K1 Max and K1 Max 2025 | 1000 W AC heater | 315 x 310 mm aluminium alloy bed | Up to 100°C | 60°C in about 90 seconds | Pre-assembled with thermistor and cable
Who the Creality K1 Max Heated Bed Kit is built for
The K1 Max owner with a bed that will not heat
You bought a Creality K1 Max for its size and speed, and now a heater or thermistor fault has grounded it. This kit is the direct replacement: same dimensions, same connectors, same heater rating. There is no firmware editing and no rewiring of custom parts. Swap the bed, run the printer's self-test, and you can be printing a full-plate batch of PETG brackets the same evening.
The small print farm operator
When one of six printers is down, you lose a sixth of your capacity and your lead times slip. Keeping a spare K1 Max heated bed on the shelf turns a week-long wait into a short bench job. Because it is the genuine part, the replacement bed behaves exactly like the others in your fleet, so your sliced profiles, bed temperatures and first-layer settings carry over unchanged. One swap and that machine is back running overnight production.
The prototyping engineer printing ABS and ASA
Engineering materials such as ABS and ASA need a bed at 90°C to 100°C for the full length of a print, or the corners lift. A tired heater that cannot hold temperature shows up as warped housings and failed fit checks. A new 1000 W bed restores the heating headroom the K1 Max was designed with, so a 280 mm ABS enclosure panel prints flat again inside the heated chamber.
What sets the K1 Max Heated Bed Kit apart
A factory-matched part, so the printer behaves like it did on day one
This is Creality part number 4001040055, listed in Creality's own K1 Max parts list and shared by the K1 Max 2025. That matters more than it sounds. The K1 Max runs Creality OS, which is built on Klipper firmware, and its bed temperature control is tuned to the resistance of the factory heater and the curve of the factory thermistor. An exact replacement keeps those values valid, so temperature readings stay accurate and the heater control loop stays stable. You avoid the trial and error that comes with aftermarket beds of unknown specification.
1000 watts of mains heat for a 300 mm build area
Unlike the 24 V beds on smaller printers, the K1 Max heated bed runs directly on mains AC, switched by a solid-state relay on the printer. The 1000 W rating is what lets a 315 x 310 mm aluminium alloy plate reach 60°C in roughly 90 seconds and climb to its 100°C maximum without stalling. The aluminium spreads that heat across the surface, which is why the whole plate, corners included, holds the temperature your slicer asks for. The kit is rated for 110 V and 220 V AC, so it runs on standard South African 230 V supply through the printer's own power inlet.
Pre-assembled, so the swap is a bench job, not a project
The bed arrives as a complete assembly with the heater bonded in place and the thermistor and cable harness already fitted. You do not have to attach heater pads or crimp connectors. The general process is to switch off and unplug the printer, remove the build plate, disconnect the bed harness, unbolt the old bed, fit the new one and reconnect. Then run the printer's self-test and a fresh auto-levelling cycle. Because the heater carries mains voltage, always disconnect the power cord before you start.
The K1 bed will not fit, and here is why
Creality sells separate heated beds for each K1 model, and they are not interchangeable. The table below compares the options owners most often ask us about.
| Option | Fits | Size | Heater | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Creality K1 Max Heated Bed Kit (this part) | K1 Max, K1 Max 2025 | 315 x 310 mm | 1000 W, 110/220 V AC | Genuine factory specification, up to 100°C |
| Creality K1 Heated Bed Kit | K1 | 235 x 235 mm | 280 W, 24 V DC | Wrong size and voltage for the K1 Max |
| Aftermarket graphite bed | K1 Max (modified) | K1 Max footprint | About 1100 W, AC | Higher temperature, may need a relay upgrade and firmware changes |
Full specifications: K1 Max heated bed kit
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Printing | |
| Maximum bed temperature | 100°C |
| Heat-up time | About 90 seconds to 60°C |
| Build surface area | 315 x 310 mm |
| Suited materials | PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU and fibre-filled blends within the printer's limits |
| Hardware | |
| Brand | Creality |
| Creality part number | 4001040055 |
| Store SKU | CRE733 |
| Bed material | Aluminium alloy |
| Included | Pre-assembled hotbed with heater, thermistor and cable harness |
| Flexible build plate | Not included, sold separately |
| Compatible printers | Creality K1 Max, Creality K1 Max 2025 |
| Not compatible | Creality K1, K1C |
| Software | |
| Firmware | Works with the printer's standard Creality OS (Klipper-based), no changes required |
| Calibration after fitting | Printer self-test and auto-levelling cycle |
| Physical | |
| Net weight | 1,685 g |
| Gross weight | 2,198 g |
| Packing size | 365 x 345 x 45 mm |
| Power | |
| Heater power | 1000 W |
| Rated voltage | 110 V / 220 V AC |
| Heater switching | Via the printer's solid-state relay |
Ordering, shipping and support for your K1 Max heated bed
We deliver the K1 Max Heated Bed Kit by courier to any address in South Africa, or you can collect from our Centurion and Boksburg stores. Warranty claims are handled locally by our team, not sent offshore, and our technicians can help you diagnose whether the fault is the bed, the cable or the levelling board. Replacement build plates, filament and other Creality spare parts ship from local stock.
Frequently asked questions about the K1 Max heated bed
Can I use the Creality K1 heated bed on my K1 Max?
No, the K1 bed does not fit the K1 Max. The K1 uses a 235 x 235 mm bed with a 24 V, 280 W heater, while the K1 Max needs this 315 x 310 mm bed with a 1000 W mains heater. The mounting, wiring and control are all different. This kit is the correct part for both the original K1 Max and the K1 Max 2025.
Can the K1 Max heated bed print ABS and ASA?
Yes, the bed reaches 100°C, which covers ABS, ASA and PETG as well as PLA and TPU. For best results with ABS, keep the enclosure door and lid closed and let the chamber warm up before the first layer. Pair it with a textured PEI build plate, since PEI gives reliable adhesion at these temperatures.
How long does it take to replace the K1 Max heated bed?
Most owners comfortable with hex keys and connectors finish the swap in about an hour. The bed is pre-assembled, so the work is mechanical: disconnect the harness, unbolt the old bed, fit the new one and reconnect. Finish with the printer's self-test and an auto-levelling run before your first print. Always unplug the printer first, because the heater runs on mains voltage.
How long does a K1 Max heated bed last?
A heated bed has no fixed service interval and often lasts the life of the printer. Most failures come from cable fatigue near the strain relief, a damaged thermistor or a heater fault after years of thermal cycling. Inspect the bed harness when you clean the printer, and keep the build plate clean so you are not tempted to push bed temperatures higher than needed.
Is there local warranty support in South Africa for this part?
Yes, the kit is covered by local warranty handled directly by 3D Printing Store. If you suspect a fault, submit a technical support ticket and our team will help you confirm whether the bed is the cause before you replace anything. The kit does not need a plug, as it draws power through the printer's own inlet.